Outer Barrel
The outer barrel is made of metal with an outer diameter of 7/8 inches or 22mm. Metal tubes are normally measured by their inner diameter so I guess one have to bring a caliper and look for metal tubes with an outer diameter a little less than 1 inch or 7/8 inches to be more precise. Although I have not tried to customize a longer or extended outer barrel, a machine shop should be able to fabricate one easily. Both ends should be threaded and a rectangular hole provided for the front sight.
Inner Barrel
The inner barrel has an inner diameter of around 6.08-6.10mm which is about normal for a stock gun. However, those who are hoping for a drop in tight barrel fit will find some disappointment in the fact that a normal inner barrel of an aeg is around 8.27-8.3mm and therefore 0.3mm larger than the outer diameter of the Mk1 (around 8mm). This means that the inner barrel of a traditional aeg will not fit into the hop up chamber of the Mk1. Read the rest of this entry »
August 6th, 2007 | Posted in Cheap Airsoft Guns | 1 Comment
An m16 airsoft gun with a one piece upper receiver which means you can’t remove the carry handle. It’s a more classic look. Nice thing though this version has some sort of JG logo to it as you can see on the pictures. A simpler hand grip plate with an honest to goodness “Made In China” markings Read the rest of this entry »
August 3rd, 2007 | Posted in Cheap Airsoft Guns | No Comments
No Drain, No Gain
If you want to be serious about getting the most from your electric power system, you need a high-amp battery discharger. It’s the tool you’ll use to drain your packs before recharging them, to train them to run at race pace and to monitor their capacity. Sounds like a high-tech piece of gear, right? Nah; it’s just a bunch of light bulbs! With a little patience, it’s easy to solder a discharger of your own. Here’s how.
How Many Bulbs?
A no. 1157 taillight bulb draws about 2 amps, so you need 10 bulbs to build a 20A discharger. Why 20 amps? A motor in a competition car that is geared to run for 5 minutes draws about 20 amps, and it’s best to consistently discharge your packs at an amp rate similar to what they’ll see in action.
Serious modified racers often use a 15-bulb discharger to pull 30 amps, but this is more than what most of us need. When in doubt, go with fewer bulbs; there isn’t any point in putting extra strain on the cells. Save the abuse for the A-main! Read the rest of this entry »
July 31st, 2007 | Posted in Airsoft Tips | No Comments
The JG S-system automatic electric airsoft gun is finally here. I will based this short review on just one criteria that matters most to many - fps(feet per second). After all, This is a Jing Gong so let us assume that it has all the quality Jing Gong is known for.
The JG s-system and the DE s-system arrived at about the same time. The DE has a lost reputation to recoup while the JG is still riding high on its well deserved praise and attention. Dubbed as the Tokyo Marui of ACM(All China Made) by some this reputation is well-founded. Some people even touted the G36c, the best selling Jing Gong to date, better than the Japanese counterpart it copied from. While this may or may not be true, you can’t blame players for getting too excited about Jing Gong products - they are indeed exciting. And a case in point is the Jing Gong S-system. Read the rest of this entry »
July 30th, 2007 | Posted in Cheap Airsoft Guns | No Comments
Metal Parts
- Magazine (body and bottom)
- Charging Handle
- Flash hider, Outer Barrel (extends up to the reciever)
- Rear sight, windage dial, elevation dial
- Triangle Sight (even the small parts above)
- Fire selector
- Lower trigger guard
- Dust cover
- Mag release, mag lock
- Butt tube
- Bolt catch
- Delta ring
General
- The lower and upper receivers doesn’t have any markings except for the fire selection which are safe, semi and auto. Others bear the commando marking.
- The hop is quick to respond .
- Weight is decent though a little on the heavy side.
- Plastic is not your ordinary ACM plastic.
- Only one hole at the back of Spring guide and the length is 1/4 of the spring guide.
- The front sight can be adjusted and it also comes with a plastic tool.
- All stock, it penetrated center of bottom of soda can using .2g bb
- No misfeed when fired in full-auto. Very stable groupings.
- Air compression is good.
- Butt stock has six adjustable position.
- Hop is made of plastic.
- Movable forward assist knob.
- Stock gears have no markings.
- The spring guide is made of metal.
- Magazine performed satisfactorily.
- Stock spring wears off easily.
The feel of this Automatic Electric Gun is solid. The fire selector is reactive and stiff. You can hear the “tick “sound. The flash hider can also be removed from the barrel. Also, sounds good when cocking. I tried to check the gear box and found out that spring guide is already metal. I can’t wait to adjust the gear box already.
Summary
All in all, after some observations and stress test, I’ve noticed that the stock spring is easily worn out.
Made some observations in the barrel assembly, I saw the barrel shell, it is connected to barrel holder then the barrel holder is connected to upper reciever threaded metal attachment. The barrel shell has no screw holes for barrel lock so it just depends on the “push” of the allen screw. If the screw gets loose, chances are the barrel will wobble and the barrel shell might rotate sideways. You can notice this when the triangle sight turns. But these issues can be avoided and prevented as long as you don’t stress the barrel shell too much like installing a sling that is connected at the front swivel, installing unnecessary accessories at the hand guards, etc…
All-in- all, this is a very nice cheap airsoft gun. Very worth your money and time. Qualtiy and perfomance is not compromised. Buy one before stocks run out!
July 27th, 2007 | Posted in Cheap Airsoft Guns, Gun Reviews | No Comments
